Northern Patagonia Trip Info

Doing the Carretera Austral, or Camino Austral. This guide was written in early 2016.

Table of contents

General idea & planning
- Plan for 8 days from Coyhaique
- Temperatures and Rain (for Feb)
Trip costs (approx., per person, CLP)
- Car rent
- Airplane costs
Destinations
Useful info
Guide in Portuguese

General idea & planning

Go to Puerto Montt airport (PMC), do the carretera, and flight back from PMC. Problem: price (and time) of the ferries. Must be reserved in advance.
To save money: rent a car in Santigo and drive SCL until Puerto Montt (~12h). Problem: additional car renting day(s) and 1000 Km do be done. Only for fuel, 140000 CLPs... Not worth it.
Third option, go to Coyhaique (Balmaceda airport) and do the carretera from there (IMO, best one).
For sleeping, camping and hostels. Camping from ~3000 CLP and hostel from ~8000 CLP.
On average, do 250 km/day in the carretera. Stop to do some trekking in previously defined sites.
To do the full length, 8 days minimum is required (more than 1200 km).
There is a "circuit option" to Quellón; Motorcycle Map (15 days). Problem: price (and time) of the ferries. In high season, once a week!! Must be reserved in advance.
From internet: it is possible to do it with a regular car (e.g., Toyota Corolla).
Dates: from 30/01 (D Asmus) until 12/02 (D Moser restriction).

Plan for 8 days from Coyhaique

Go north of Coyhaique, where it is more populated ("safer"). At least, reach the Queulat National Park in the north. Then we could return and start going south. We should go, at least, till Cochrane in the southern direction.
If we like the northern area, at latest, on Friday evening we start returning. Saturday we would reach the region below Coyhaique and on Sunday we could explore it. We could see Cochrane, sleep north of it (Puerto Bertrand) and then arrive perfecty on time to our flight back on Monday.
If we return on Thursday, we can go to (Caleta) Tortel. Sleep Cochrane or south of it on Saturday night; Sunday in Tortel area, and at night in north of Cochrane.
If we decide to do to Villa O'Higgins, then 2 more days are required (return from northern area on Wednesday evening).

Temperatures and Rain (for Feb)

Cochrane 19.4 - 8.8 oC. (0.8 historical minimum); 8/28 rains
Coyhaique 18.9 - 8.9 oC. (0.0 hm); 10/28 rains

Trip costs (approx., per person, CLP)

Plane: 80000-200000
Ferries for a car (minimum)/4 people: 50000x2/4 = 25000
Car renting+fuel/4 people: (65000+25000)/4 = 22500/day
Food+hostel+etc: 22500/day

Car rent

Hertz 4x4, 5 people @ PMC airport, 65000/day (with discount)
Coyhaique local renters, from 65000 to 100000/day

Airplane costs

Buying ~1 month in advance: 120.000
Buying 15 days in advance: 150.000
Santiago (SCL) to Puerto Montt (PMC), Balmaceda (BBA) or Valdivia (ZAL), ~same price.
http://despegar.cl
http://lan.com
http://www.skyairline.cl/

Destinations

Ventisquero Colgante and Capillas de Mármol (Marble Chapels) must be done.

Puerto Montt - Chaitén

TBD
Caleta Gonzalo, private park Pumalín. Nice information center. A few hiking trails, including one to the crater of the volcano Chaitén. A few campsites.

Chaitén - Coyhaique

Chaltén is practically closed since a volcanic eruption in 2008, but the city still works (ferries, gas station, etc).
(side trip) Amarillo has the famous hotsprings.
Puerto Cárdenas
(in between) Ventisquero Yelcho. There is a hiking trail (3-4 hours) to the glacier and a waterfall and a campsite (~3500 CLP).
Villa Santa Lucía has only one cabaña and one little hospidaje (~7500 CLP).
(side trip) Futaleufu, famous river (kayaking and rafting) and route to Argentina. Risky: road in bad conditions (April 2014) and no mechanics or tire shops in the way.
La Junta nice town with friendly people. Hotels from 8000-45000 at Espacio y Tiempo (very nice with great food).
Puyuhuapi town with German influence. Hostel Evelyn (main road, ~150 meters from Copec sign at the bridge; ~6000, including a hot shower, WiFi and a kitchen). Termas de Puyuhuapi appears to be an expensive place (accessed by boat).
(in between) Parque Nacional Queulat. One can camp at the hanging glacier (6000 CLP + 4000 CLP as a park entrance fee). Then there's the Queulat pass at 500 meters. It is crossed by a narrow gravel road with some very steep sections. If you did not camp at the campsite and you need to find a spot to camp around the top of the pass, it is better to camp under a bridge.
(in between) 5 km north of intersection for Puerto Cisnes (at the top of the pass?) there is a nice hiking trail through the Bosque Encantando, a very beautiful lagoon surrounded by peaks and many waterfalls. This walk is free! Close to this road intersection wild camp is tolerated.
(side trip) Puerto Cisnes, emergency refuel. Trekking to the Cascada, nothing special.
Villa Amengual. A few km north there is a very nice bakery in the middle of nowhere. The grocery store at the plaza has beds and hot water for ~7000 and good food prices. Uninteresting town with mostly expensive accommodation and shops.
(in between) Reserva Nacional Lago Las Torres, se ubica en el km. 143 de la ruta austral. Esta reserva posee áreas de picnic y camping, y abarca un pequeño lago de gran belleza, flanqueado por los altos picachos de torres.
Villa Manihuales is a small town with many shops.
(in between) About 6 km south from the intersection to Puerto Aysén, there is a boot campsite (Camping Las Torres Del Simpson, 6000 CLP, but worth the money with excellent facilities).
(side trip) Puerto Aysén, Puerto Chacabuco (day trip with Catamaranes del Sur to the San Valentín glacier).

Coyhaique - Cochrane

Coyhaique main city of the region.
(in between) Balmaceda airport. ~50 min to Coyhaique.
Villa Cerro Castillo, going over a pass that is the highest point on the Carretera Austral (1100 masl; important for bikers). At the city, there is a good campsite down close to the river (4000 CLP). It is not the cheapest one but the extra 1000 CLP is worth it for the excellent service. The owner will also give you his self-made map for the trail up to the peak and its lagoon. This way it is possible to go to the peak and back in one day instead of having to camp near the top for a night, as the tourist information office will advise you.
(in between) The road from Villa Cerro Castillo to Puerto Rio Tranquilo is very sparsely populated and in a bad condition.
Puerto Rio Tranquilo is a very touristy town. The excursion to the underwater caves is very good and not too expensive (5000 CLP; Capillas de Mármol!!!). Access to Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael (Glacier): the new 77km gravel road goes from Rio Tranquilo to Bahía Exploradores. This makes day trips possible from Río Tranquilo: outfitters provide a necessary boat crossing to continue on from where the road ends. Stay overnight to hear the sighs, splintering and booms of calving ice.
(in between) The road from Puerto Rio Tranquilo to Puerto Bertrand has some amazing views of the lakes (Lake General Carrera).
(side trip) Village of Puerto Guadal and area have some accommodation options before going to Chile Chico (Reserva Nacional Jeinimeni, 52km southwest of Chile Chico. Turquoise lakes, with cave paintings and flamingos).
Puerto Bertrand
(in between) The last stretch of road to Cochrane is with very difficult up and downhills and with bad gravel. The confluencia of the rivers Baker and Neff is very spectacular.

Cochrane - Villa O'Higgins

Cochrane has a good supermarket with a good selection of food and other goods. There are not many populated places on this road so bring food. Southest gas station!
(side trip) Caleta Tortel is an interesting town built on wooden stilts, but is very very touristy, commercial and expensive. One reviewer said it has some of the most incredible natural scenery on Earth. Camping is possible at the beach (free) but can be very wet and windy. Accommodation gets full during the day and if you arrive late, you might have to sleep at the shelter at the parking lot. There is free internet in the library and in the municipal building. Cheapest dorm style bed goes for 7000 CLP.
(in between) The ferry from Puerto Yungay to Rio Bravo is free and goes two or three times a day. It is advised to take the morning or the evening ferry and spend the night at the shelter on either side. The shelter on the Rio Bravo side is much better and is an actual room, protected from the wind.
(in between) From here to Villa O'Higgins the gravel road is generally in a good condition and very pleasant.
At Villa O'Higgins there are some hiking trails. There is free internet in the library and free wifi all over town that sometimes even works. If you are taking the ferry to cross to Argentina, you can wild camp close to the harbour.

Google times and distances

Chaitén - La Junta: 2h45 (144 km)
La Junta - Puerto Aysén: 5h50 (250 km)
Puerto Aysén - Coyhaique: 1h00 (64 km)
Coyhaique - Balmaceda: 50 min (57 km)
Balmaceda - Puerto Río Tranquilo: 6h10 (193 km)
Puerto Río Tranquilo - Cochrane: 4h38 (114 km)
Cochrane - Puerto Yungay: 4h56 (132 km)
FERRY (1h00* sail, but two or three times a day; free in 2014)
Rio Bravo - Villa O'Higgins: 4h32 (102 km)

Distances - Northern Section

Puerto Montt - Ferry ramp of La Arena (45km)
Ferry La Arena - Caleta Puelche (30min)
Caleta Puelche - Hornopiren (48km)
Ferry Hornopiren - Caleta Gonzalo (5hrs)
Caleta Gonzalo - Chaiten (66km) *Pumalin Park*
Chaiten - Villa Santa Lucia (81km)
Villa Santa Lucia - Futaleufu (78km)
Villa Santa Lucia - La Junta (70km)
La Junta - Puerto Puyuhuapi (45km)
Puyuhuapi - Puerto Cisnes (94km)
Puyuhuapi - Villa Amengual (92km) *Nat Park Queulat*
Villa Amengual - Puerto Chacabuco (106km)
Villa Amengual - Coyhaique (144km) mostly paved

Distances - Southern Section

Coyhaique - Balmaceda Airport (55km) paved
Balmaceda - Villa Cerro Castillo (64km) paved
Villa Cerro Castillo - Puerto Rio Tranquilo (158km)
Puerto Rio Tranquilo - Puerto Guadal (61km)
Puerto Guadal - Cochrane (66km)
Option Puerto Guadal - Chile Chico (112km)
Ferry tracking back north Chile Chico - Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez (approx 2 hrs)
Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez - Villa Cerro Castillo (31km)
Cochrane - Caleta Tortel (133km) poor road state
Caleta Tortel - Puerto Yungay (30km approx)
Puerto Yungay ferry to other side 1hr approx)
Onward to Villa O'Higgins (100km) very poor road state

Useful info

Ferries

Costs for Ferry transfer for car (from 2012):

Caleta La Arena — Puelche: 10K (30min)
Hornopiren — Caleta Gonzalo: 30K (5h)
Chacbuco — Quellon? Naviera Austral seems to not serve this route anymore? Would take 40hours —> >200K?!
Puerto Cisnes - Quellon: Naviera Austral does this route but nothing available in the time frame
Chaiten — Puerto Montt (140K CLP , 24h)

Links:

Renting a car - Coyhaique

From D Asmus:

Alamo: not present in Coyhaique
Econorent: present but have to be contacted by phone for availability
Europcar: only Camioneta available
Hertz: already sold out everything but Camioneta
Leclerc: Jeep 84K CLP per day http://www.leclercrentacar.cl/
Rental Cert: Jeep (price??? avail???): http://www.rentalcert.cl/vehiculos/ford.php

Estimado Don Daniel, le envío cotización, requisitos de arriendo y reserva de
camioneta doble cabina Mitsubishi L-200 4x4 turbo diesel, mecánica o similar.

Arriendo a 65.450 pesos por día (semana)

Atte.
Sergio

Traeger: all kinds of high clearance cars and jeeps, e.g., Ford EcoSport for 55K CLP per day, avail??? (sent email)
Varona: jeeps, no prices or avail -> email http://www.varona.cl/varona/rentacar.php

Cot. Vehiculos.doc

Mitsubishi Katana CRT, Nissan NP 300, SSangyong Actyon Sport, 80.000/day
Jeep Wragler Rubicon, 88500/day
Mitsubishi Montero G2, 107100/day

From Google:

Campaem Rent a Car, http://www.campaem.cl/contacto.html, Lautaro 930 Coyhaique, Tel. 90891557

From this website (2008?):

Ags Rent a Car, agsautomotriz@entelchile.net, Avenida Ogana 1298 Coyhaique, Tel. (67) 253225
Andes Patagonicos, ap@patagoniachile.cl, Horn 48 Coihaique, Tel. (67) 216711
Automundo AVR, wfritschk@patagoniachile.cl, Francisco Bilbao 510 Coyhaique, Tel. (67) 231621
Budget Rent a Car, reservas@budget.cl, Aeropuerto Balmaceda S/N Coyhaique, Tel. (67) 272127
Don Santiago Rent a Car, donsantiago2@hotmail.com, Errazuriz 1040 Coyhaique, Tel. (67) 231116
International Rent a Car, mdiaz@international-rac.com, Aeropuerto De Balmaceda Coihaique, Tel. 9-90158550
LSH Transportes, geo-trans@hotmail.com, Cerro Mackay 1565 Coyhaique, Tel. (09) 9398159
O'carrol, contacto@ocarrolrentacar.com, , Tel. (72) 583190

Estimado Daniel
Estamos sobre arrendados en estos momentos no tenemos disponibildad, esperamos atenderlos pronto
Sdos

WALDO A. FIGUEROA O.

SendaTour, sendatour@enpatagonia.cl, General Parra 554 - B Coyhaique,
T&T Rent a Car, tranytur@123.cl, Calle Cochrane 387 01 Coyhaique, Tel. (67) 256000

Message

(Alquiler 4x4 principios de febrero)
Buenos días!

Nos gustaría alquilar un coche 4x4 para 5 personas entre 30 de enero al 10 de febrero (las fechas son flexibles).
Retiro y despacho en Aeropuerto Balmaceda. Qué opciones tienes? Cuánto es por día?

Muchas Gracias!

Guide in Portuguese

Fotos da viagem

O Camino Austral, como é conhecida a Carretera, pode ser divido em quatro trechos:

Puerto Montt - Chaitén - Tem 205 km de extensão e inclui visita ao Parque Nacional Alerce Andino, uma zona montanhosa de 20 mil hectares localizada ainda na Região dos Lagos, e travessias de barco em Caleta Arena e Hornopirén. Outra opção é tomar os ferries que saem de Puerto Montt em direção a Chaitén. Mas a cidade serve apenas de passagem para quem segue ao sul, devido às atividades do vulcão Chaitén desde maio de 2008. O habitantes de Chaitén, o comércio e os órgãos públicos já se preparam para "mudar" a cidade de lugar.
Chaitén - Coyhaique - 406 km separam Chaitén da capital de Aysén, na Patagônia chilena. Os destaques desse trecho são La Junta, povoado localizado no vale do Rio Palena; Puerto Puyuhuapi, vila de origem alemã famosa por suas águas termais de até 40°C; Parque Nacional Queulat e o Ventisquero Colgante, um glacial suspenso; além de Coyhaique, a maior cidade da região.
Coyhaique - Cochrane - Os 334 km seguintes da Carretera Austral oferecem atrativos naturais impressionantes como as cavernas de mármore do lago General Carrera, o segundo maior da América do Sul; e o Glacial Exploradores localizado no Campo de Gelo Norte. Cochrane é a capital de Capitán Prat e oferece serviços de hospedagem e alimentação. Outro destaque é Puerto Bertrand, região conhecida pela prática de rafting e local onde nasce o rio Baker, um dos mais caudalosos do Chile.
Cochrane - Villa O'Higgins - 295 km. O maior destaque desse trecho está em um desvio de 25 km: a curiosa Caleta Tortel. No lugar de ruas, passarelas de cipreste conectam as residências locais com o centro da comunidade. Villa O'Higgins é o último destino desse caminho de 1.240 km de extensão que nasce em Puerto Montt e termina próximo ao Campo de Gelo Sul.